Monday 17 March 2008

Day Three of Fallas

Fallas 2008 in Valencia
Traditional Valencian Fallas costumes for the Fallera Queens and their courts

A relatively quiet day as far as we are concerned - probably due mainly to the fact that we have plenty of work to do this week and have therefore not spent too much time away from the apartment. [Indeed, the only time we ventured out this morning was when Liz walked over to the El Saler Shopping Centre at the other side of the riverbed to see if she could obtain tickets for the Valencia CF versus Barcelona match in the city this Thursday. After two hours of queuing, a déjà vu experience when it was discovered that the box office system wasn't working... then it would only issue tickets in 'ones'... then there were just a handful of single tickets left... no use to us - another wasted morning queuing in Valencia - just like the Three Days at the Opera last November!]

However, the sounds of Valencia and indeed the experience of walking through the streets must be something akin to walking through the streets of Beirut, although thankfully without the death and destruction - purely the ongoing noise and smell of explosives. We had a handful of mascletàs across the panoramic vista from our balcony at 2.00pm this afternoon. The despertà this morning was lively and as with the mascletà, it appears to get louder everyday. The sound of the marching bands mixed with the cracks and bangs of fireworks commenced at 8.00am. If anything, the fact that today was a Monday and nominally some people were apparently at work and not chucking fireworks, maybe the despertà fireworks weren't as loud as yesterday's, but this was more than compensated by the marching bands. Not being especially fond of brass brands or their music, there is something very appealing about Valencian marching bands. The music has a real appeal - possibly the repetitive nature of many of the traditional songs or possibly it's the beat of the drums. The children are now beginning to whistle some of the catchiest Valencian rhythms, and indeed both Chris and Jo are able to sing the Valencian anthem - in Valenciano. Must check out the copyright and see if I can use the music to accompany some of my many hours of video already 'in the can' for my Fallas record.

Later this afternoon , we ambled down to El Corté Inglés to buy some tickets for the ATP Tennis Open Finals in Valencia (incidentally, we managed to get front row seats for five people for less than the cost of a single ticket at Wimbledon - let's hope the final is between Andy Murray and Rafael Nadal! One successful ticketing story today at least!). The walk to El Corté Inglés is around 500 metres, but as we now know, during Fallas, it is a treacherous journey, safe only for non-combustible humans or the deaf and hard-of-hearing! The noise from the fireworks being lobbed, dropped and surreptitiously left in our path gave us whistling ears by the time we got home. Most of the combatants (!) were 5-6 year-olds and the effects of their parents' pyrotechnic budgets can be seen in the variety of new dances we are now all easily able to perform as we move gracefully up and down the streets avoiding the fizzing firecrackers.

1 comment:

Terry said...

Happy Easter All! Thanks as ever Brian for your absolutely riveting blog. I feel I've got a front row seat to all this pyrotechnical mayhem, but without any of the health and safety anxieties. Of the many mysterious aspects of Fallas, for me, is why do the statues look as if they have just emerged from Disneyworld? I had expected something a bit more folksy or Romanesque. Or does the 'look' change from year to year? Also intrigued about the Falla Queens (sounds like a dodgy rock group). I will have to follow the weblinks you left in an earlier post to find out more about the phenomenon. But perhaps the Valencians just like dressing up? When I was there last July I went for a late night stroll in the Turia bed and chanced upon what looked like a time-warped Miss World contest, consisting of a lot of very serious little girls sweltering elegantly in the kind of dresses the dwarf ladies in waiting wear in Velasquez' celebrated Las Meninas as their various mothers/supporters/sponsors looked on. I couldn't really make sense of it, but everyone seemed to be having a very good time!

Hope you all manage to keep out of the way of all those fireworks being tossed around with such gay abandon.

Thanks again for all this great stuff.

Terry